Jump to ContentJump to Main Navigation
Baroque between the WarsAlternative Style in the Arts, 1918-1939$
Users without a subscription are not able to see the full content.

Jane Stevenson

Print publication date: 2018

Print ISBN-13: 9780198808770

Published to Oxford Scholarship Online: January 2018

DOI: 10.1093/oso/9780198808770.001.0001

Show Summary Details
Page of

PRINTED FROM OXFORD SCHOLARSHIP ONLINE (www.oxfordscholarship.com). (c) Copyright Oxford University Press, 2020. All Rights Reserved. An individual user may print out a PDF of a single chapter of a monograph in OSO for personal use. date: 29 May 2020

Flowers in the Abstract

Flowers in the Abstract

Chapter:
(p.277) 16 Flowers in the Abstract
Source:
Baroque between the Wars
Author(s):

Jane Stevenson

Publisher:
Oxford University Press
DOI:10.1093/oso/9780198808770.003.0017

Before the 1920s perfume was strongly encoded. Musky scents and tropical ‘heavy florals’ were associated with prostitution, oriental perfumes with decadence and Catholicism, and light floral scents such as rose and lavender with virtuous femininity, while citrus colognes were unisex. Blending perfumes was held to be decadent in itself. The discovery of synthetic aldehydes increased the range of possible scents, and perfumers began experimenting. The modernization of perfume began with mixing scents from different semiotic categories, thus moving from naturalism to abstraction. ‘Chanel No. 5’ was the most successful of these new inventions, and was consciously conceived of as a synthetic creation.

Keywords:   perfume, semiotics, aldehyde, Chanel, abstraction

Oxford Scholarship Online requires a subscription or purchase to access the full text of books within the service. Public users can however freely search the site and view the abstracts and keywords for each book and chapter.

Please, subscribe or login to access full text content.

If you think you should have access to this title, please contact your librarian.

To troubleshoot, please check our FAQs , and if you can't find the answer there, please contact us .